Kowloon and Nga Tsin Wai in 1846. The walled village dominates the scene. The gatehouse is visible left side, with a 'hetang' space to front, and the Kai Tak River flowing to its outfall in Kowloon Bay. Axially behind are two wooded hills, the left one higher than the right.
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What
The Hong Kong of popular image is the city of towers around Victoria Harbour. Once upon a time this was an agricultural landscape, its plains and coves interspersed with wooded mountains, settlements, temples and impressive fortified walled villages, such as Nga Tsin Wai Tsuen, the village dominating the 1846 view of Kowloon by Lt T. B. Collinson. Amidst today’s chaotic metropolis there still remain vestiges of these villages with their characteristic rows of houses separated by narrow lanes. Sadly Nga Tsin Wai is not one of them, having been demolished as recently as 2016.
At a time of intense pressure locally on development with the opening up of access to mainland China, and internationally for sustainable urban futures, to what extent do these historic settlements offer a viable model? This site comprises a study of the historic typologies, a look at the changes brought about in the 20th century, and a mapping and photographic study of each relevant village documenting the state of play around 2020. It is hoped this short summary will help in some way to document their origins and typology, raise awareness and stimulate some protection for what remains.
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Why
This site has grown out of conversations with colleagues whilst exploring the New Territories and its ancient villages. Material about these rural-urban settlements can be found in brief tourist information summaries, in passing references in general textbooks about Chinese architecture, in formal statutory listing notes, in highly specific detailed research, or in regional news reports, but there appears to exist no overview of the typology and evaluation of its contemporary status. This shortfall is addressed here by collating evidence from multiple sources, and is intended solely as an educational resource.
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Fanling Wai. Moat, gatehouse, corner towers, with small houses of 3-4 storeys punctuated by occasional traditional houses.
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How
I have personally visited all the villages described, often in the chaotic New Territories subtopia, occasionally in remote and beautiful coastal landscapes. Primary sources include photographs, digital measurements, urban sketches, redrawn plans, elevations and sections, typological groupings, interviews with residents, fellow architects in HK and with AMO. Secondary sources include research literature in Hong Kong and UK libraries and online. A bibliography is included for those who wish to take this research further.
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Who
James Dyson BA DipArch ARB RIBA. Amongst other things I am a studio tutor at universities in the UK and Hong Kong, a regular member of the UCLan Institute of Architecture ‘Flying Faculty’ to VTC Hong Kong. Whilst my background is professional, I have attempted to present the material in a readily accessible way. I acknowledge the opportunity afforded to carry out fieldwork afforded by UCLan-VTC, together with UCLan colleagues especially Louise Janvier, Fanny Ang Bing Hun and Simon Kay-Jones. I owe a tuned awareness of cities and urbanism to Manchester School of Architecture A+U colleagues Eamonn Canniffe and David Chandler.
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All text, photography and drawings are copyright James Dyson. However I would be happy for the content to inform the work of others and will consider approaches for collaboration. Please credit or cite this work!
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I hope to add more content. And to paraphrase tha request by Nikolaus Pevsner in each volume of the Buildings of England, I would be grateful to any user of this website for having any errors or omissions pointed out in as much detail as possible.
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Brickwork at Tuen Mun San Tsuen and Nai Wai.
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Exploring the New Territories
Urbanism is best investigated on foot, and walking is definitely recommended to fully immerse yourself in this bonkers landscape.
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To get there, use the excellent MTR, and the inexpensive and abundant local taxis and buses.
And take:
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water and provisions; shops are rare once away from MTR hubs.
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A good map; the NT lanes can be a maze at times; I use maps.me which uses gps rather than data or WiFi signal.
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A rigid umbrella; useful for heavy rain showers and warding off dogs.
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Deet, if you’re a mosi magnet.
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Trainers or comfortable shoes.
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The visitor will encounter village dogs roaming free. These are invariably large and fierce. It is said they are friendly to villagers whose scents they recognise, and unfriendly to the smell of strangers. Respect their territory. The keeper of three fierce dogs at Lai Chi Wo says that the dogs respond to quick movement, so walk slowly. I have found an umbrella, carried for the sudden torrential showers, to also be useful in warding off village dogs, though perhaps this just gave a false sense of security - if they had really wanted to attack...
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Primary Sources
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Site visits to villages, see above, with photography and urban sketching. Site mapping and photographic record.
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Site visits to Rochester Way in London (Barber), Timberyard in Dublin (O'Donnell Tuomey), and The Malings in Newcastle (Ash Sakula).
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Conversations with architect colleagues based in Hong Kong.
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Conversations with Hong Kong village residents.
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Ng, C (Curator), and Yuen, C (Assistant Curator), Antiquities and Monuments Office. (24.6.2019). Personal interview.
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Fanny Ang Bing Hun, architect. (9.9.2019). Personal interview.
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Museum artefacts:
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Hong Kong Museum of History
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Hong Kong Heritage Discovery Centre
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British Museum
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Ashmolean Museum, Oxford
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Victoria Harbour and Central from Kowloon: is this the real Hong Kong?
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